Sleeves, Collars and Pockets

Sleeves There are several different styles of sleeves but they all are based on one of the following three types.

Set-in sleeve. This is the most common type of sleeves and it is cut separately from the garment and inserted into the armhole. The length and width of the sleeve can differ, but the method of insertion is the same. Finish seams and the lower edge of the sleeve is desired before inserting it.

Raglan sleeve. This sleeve is well liked for its comfortable fit and relatively easy construction. Its diagonal seamline can lead into another seam or from part of a neckline. If can be cut on the straight or bias grain, with a one- or two-piece construction. The shoulder curve is part of the sleeve shape, and is created by a dart, a seam, or gathers.

Pockets may be decorative or functional or both. There are two basic types - patch pockets and bag pockets. Whatever the style, the pocket should be well made, neat and, if it is to be used, strong.

Always make pockets as early as possible in the construction of a garment and decide their position at the first fitting. The size of all visible pockets should be proportioned to both the garment and wearer's figure. Most visible pockets create emphasis by breaking the line of a garment, so position them carefully. When choosing fabrics remember that emphasis is increased if the pocket fabric is a contrasting colour or design, or is cut on the cross.

A functional pocket must be placed so that the hand can be inserted easily and be big enough for you to feel into all parts without disturbing the opening, but not so large that objects are lost in the bottom. Unless pocket size is dictated by style of the garment, calculate the dimensions by measuring the size of your hand and adding 2 to 4 sm all round for ease.

For all pockets the wrong side of the garment fabric should be reinforced, especially if it has been cut to make the opening. Pocket bags must also be strong. Calico and pocket fabrics are the toughest, but if the strength is not essential use lightweight self-fabric or cotton, lining fabric or poplin.

The collar is so often the focal point of a garment that it must be made and attached with care for a professional result. This is not always an easy task. Most difficulty with collars arises from the shape of the collar pieces. The neck edge of the collar is the edge attached to the neck edge of the garment. It may be straight or curved in a slightly convex or concave shape. The concave edge - as on a flat collar, for example - is the easiest to attach because it is the nearest in shape to the shape of the neck edge. The slightly convex edge often found on a tailored, classic collar with revers or on a shirt collar is the most difficult to attach because, when placed against the neck edge of the garment, it curves away from it and does not follow its line.

The variation in the shape of the neck edge of the collar also determines whether it lies flat or stands up against the neck. The less the neck edge of the collar follows the shape of the neck edge of the garment, the more the finished collar will stand up.

The outer edge of the collar is shaped in a variety of ways according to the style of the garment, and a paper pattern can easily be altered at this edge without affecting the fit of the collar. The neck edge of the garment may also vary in shape, but is usually slightly shorted than the collar neck edge.

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